Day Three, “Beauty and the Beast’ – June 5, 2015
I made it to Eagle Nest, New Mexico today. It was a long 475 mile ride but I got here. I saw some really beautiful terrain today interspersed among some horrific Kansas wind and a hour long thunder and lightning storm on the way to Taos. All told I have ridden 1430 miles these past three days.
First, the good stuff:
I left a thoroughly forgettable motel in Medicine Lodge, Kansas and rode through the Gypsum Hills Scenic Area of western Kansas on highway 160. The fields were lush green and flowers were everywhere. The road is mile after mile of rollers that are straight as a ruler. Within 20 miles of leaving Medicine Lodge the terrain began to look like the real west or at least what I think it looks like with grazing land for as far as the eye can see. There were some wheat crops growing but they soon gave way to beef ranches.
I had lunch today at a tiny Mexican restaurant about 25 miles from the Kansas/Texas border. The food was excellent. I was the only customer. There was a “For Sale” sign in the window. I suspect I was one of the last patrons.
Then came the bad stuff:
The winds today were the worst I’ve ever ridden in. Granted there are a lot of riders with many more years of experience but I’ll just say I leaned and pushed and pulled for all I was worth to keep the GS pointed in the right direction. This little wind gauntlet lasted for two hours. It was all I ever wanted of that particular fresh hell and I’ll be looking for a different return route home.
The winds finally begin to abate after I left Oklahoma and rode into Texas. It was really hard for me to find a direct route road with low traffic numbers. Every road I picked had a stated speed limit of 65 or 70 or 75 which meant trucks were flying . Each one punished me with a blast. I was thrilled to cross the Texas / New Mexico state line and I thought I was home free.
The road to Eagle Nest is essentially the road to Taos from an eastern approach. You can see the mountains in the distance. They are majestic and for me signaled my arrival. The only problem was the massive storm brewing on top of those mountains. The closer I rode the more lightning and thunder came my way. I hoped it would go around but no such luck. The full force of the storm hit me and stayed with me for 50 miles. I got it all from wind, rain, tiny hail, lightning and pooled water on the road. Since there is no place to ever pull off to the side of the roads out west it was either ride and maybe die or stop in the road and die for sure. I rode. I am really pleased with the GS. I put it in Road/Wet mode and the bike performed great. I rounded a curve to find a huge puddle covering the entire road. The GS went through it like it was dry ground. My Aerostitch coat and pants were rock solid waterproof as well.
Now for my major disappointment – I rode to Eagle Nest to visit the Laguna Vista bar which has been called by some “The Best Bar In The West.” That’s a pretty tall order when you think of the Crystal Palace in Tombstone or one of several bars in Bisbee, AZ or the bar at the Erma Hotel. The Laguna bar had no draft beers of any kind. It did have a few pool tables of the put your quarters in variety. When I went in there at 8:30 there wasn’t a soul in the place. The gas station attendant told me tomorrow is “Fish For Free” day in New Mexico and everyone is home getting their tackle ready. I asked her what the big fish around these parts was and she replied “bluegill, but they are bigger this year.” There you have it. Next time you want someone to quit drinking just take them bluegill fishing. Works every time.
The road from I-25 Exit 486 to Eagle Nest is just absolutely, stunningly awesome. Curves and curves and curves with streams rolling alongside the road and antelope grazing nearby. I counted 14 of the little lopesters. Think of this stretch of road as being similar to the Dragon but three times as long with much better scenery. That of course, is why I really made the journey to the mountain.
I’m going to dial down the miles tomorrow and get some rest. I am more than a little tired.
Bless you all,
Brian
P.S. Here is a pic of my GS in the parking lot of the Laguna Vista Motel in Eagle Nest, NM. Note the snow on the mountain in the background.